CAM

Katsuo (first bonito)

   The other day, when I posted Junichiro Tanizaki's comment on the taste of the Kanto and Kansai regions, I was glad to see that yaz was referring to Kosei's past posts about Edokko.

 

    In fact, Junichiro Tanizaki's post about the taste of the previous post was re-organized ("burning"), and after a few years, I thought that blog posts were forgotten, so I re-posted it, but some people remember it.

 

   By the way, in the previous essay about "Edokko", I mentioned the following.

 

>As a Kansai person, I felt a physiological dislike of the word "Edokko" or race, and I sympathized with and agree with Seiryo Kaiho (1755-1817)'s theory that "Edo things are children, fools, and very beginnings" (Masukodan), but for the first time, I learned about the history and culture of Nihonbashi, which should be called "original Edo", and I think that I was able to have a senseless rational perception of "Edo" and "Edokko".

 

 However, is the custom of 'Edokko'? Therefore, there is "Hatsukatsuo" that elementary school students could not understand. In a recent post, Hanes introduced Issa Kobayashi's phrase "The first bonito with Oedo and dogs", but in the first place, it's something that pays a special (extremely) high price, such as bonito sashimi (to me).

 

    The following is an analysis of the background of the first bonito flavor trend in Edo, based on the theory of Mataji Miyamoto ("Kansai and Kanto" Bunshun Gakugei Library).

 

    At the time of Kanei, when the offering of the first bonito began in Edo, bonito sashimi was not prized by superiors. After that, the price of the first bonito increased, but according to the literature at that time, "Hana no Edo's prosperity is that even if the first bonito is four kan (one ryo) or five kan (one ryo), you can buy it and eat it. Indeed, from the cute eyes of the people of other countries, you can see the sashimi of money as if it is eaten, but if it is not high, it is not the first bonito. " I mean, “Good because it’s high.” It was called “exhibitionary consumption.”

 

 "The exaggeration of this unusual taste and taste seems to have been 'hari' against upwards. In other words, there was no bonito in Osaka, which borders the Seto Inland Sea. The claim is that "Katsuo", a special product only for Edo, should be eaten ... It seems that there was a vague of kamigatari mainly against kamigatari" (Mataji Miyamoto).

 

    In Osaka, there is not much wind for the first prize, and even if it is a sea bream, you can choose and eat the cheapest and delicious time in the season when you came out. This is called Uoshima Toki (a time when many sea breams can be obtained in the Seto Inland Sea from March to April of the lunar calendar, and cheap and delicious sea bream can be eaten in Osaka; Koujien). It is clear that the way Osaka people think is rational and clever. From this point of view, the Osaka people probably saw the race of "Edokko" as "Edo things are children, fools, and very beginnings."

 

  "Namihana no Kaze" (What Osakacho magistrate Suketoshi Kusumi saw and heard in Osaka between May 1855 (1855) and August 1862 (1862) during his tenure, compared to Edo), "In many cases, such as the first one in this area, those that give money to the taste of the left are of reasonable identities, such as the humble ones who send the day as in Edo, will be replaced by a new evening. It is said that it is a new evening. "

 

  The expression "the humble thing who sends the day as in Edo" is amazing (laughs). From the age point of view, this is a reference only 150 years ago.

 

 It is not a "appropriate identity", but a race that is "a person who sends the day", but is a race that consumes a lot of money for the first gatsuo, just like a child, a fool, a beginning heart, a humble thing. "