Seasonings that convey the food culture of Edo. Senshu (Irizake)
In 2021, Ginza Mikawaya's "Senshu" was certified as the "1st Chuo-ku Recommended Souvenir Food Section".
It was selected by application and voting as an attractive souvenir representing Chuo-ku.
Well, what is "Senshu"?
Do you know what you are?
Senshu is a seasoning made by adding bonito and umeboshi to sake and boiling down.
I wanted to ask about Edo's food culture and recommended recipes, so I visited Ginza Mikawa-ya, which has a store on Kinharu-dori in Ginza.
Mr. Osamu Kamiya, President and CEO, made the time.
"Senshu is specifically described in the cooking story, which is said to be the oldest cooking book in Japan, published in Kanei 20 (1643).
From the end of the Muromachi period to the culture and Bunsei of the Edo period, it was used as an important seasoning for Japanese cuisine.
"Senshu is not well known even though it was used as an important seasoning.
Has it been made steadily since Edo? "
It was cut off.
"There are several possible reasons, but one is that the storage period was short.
Also, Edo townspeople may have liked more salty things because physical labor, such as general contracting castles and daimyo residences and transporting luggage, were their main tasks.
In the middle of the Edo period and later, soy sauce brewing technology became widespread, and it became possible to obtain cheaply from the production areas of Noda and Choshi using water transportation.
The tastes of the people of Edo town and the salty soy sauce matched, and they would have been replaced with sake at once. ]
The sake that had been cut off will be revived.
"The founding of Mikawaya dates back to the Genroku era.
When I was a worker, when I took over the business, I was trading kimonos, but it didn't fit the times.
When launching a new business, I wanted to convey the culture of Edo that Mikawaya has been walking since its founding with "food." ]
"I have a lot of literature about Edo's food.
Among them, I met Senshu.
It was excellent as a healthy food, and I wanted to revive it.
Mr. Hiroshi Fukuda, a leading expert in Edo cuisine research, gave me advice, and I was able to revive through repeated research with Kinoene soy sauce in Noda City. ]
"With the growing health consciousness, Japanese food has come to attract worldwide attention.
In the coming era, I thought this was what I needed, and based on the concept of Edo food (slow food). ]
"What kind of hardship did you have during the commercialization process?"
"The basic ingredients are sake, bonito flakes and umeboshi, but when you make it, the turbidity comes out of Umeboshi.
After trial and error, I tried using plum vinegar.
High quality plum vinegar of Kishu Minami Koume.
The transparency of plum vinegar has calmed down the color and fragrance.'
"The revival of Edo food has become a hot topic, and there have been more opportunities to be featured in magazines and television.
It's becoming easier for customers to know.
"On Mikawaya's homepage, there are many cooking recipes using sake."
"I think providing delicious recipes is to spread the fans of sake.
In fact, half of the recipe is from the customer.
If you use this way, you can tell me that it was delicious.'
"What is the dish that the president likes most, using sake?"
"That's the egg rice.
Loosen the eggs on freshly cooked rice, put a little wasabi, and dripping the sake.'
Mr. Kamiya's face fell further.
It's a story that you can imagine the color and aroma of other egg rice.
President Kamiya I wanted to take that person on my blog.
"My permanent residence is Ginza 8-chome. There aren't many people who are registered here.
Then he laughed mischievously.
"When I was a child, there was also a store in Yanagibashi and I lived there.
At that time, Yanagibashi was a flower district along with Shimbashi.
Even though I was studying at school, I heard the sound of the shamisen in the tatami room and the songs of geisha.
At the time of the festival, Ichimaru was singing.
Before the expressway was built on the border between Chuo-ku and Minato-ku, Horiwari was passing.
I took a boat from Yanagibashi, passed Horiwari from the Sumida River, and came to the current Ginza Hakushinkan.
There was also a tram running, but I wonder if there are few people who have passed by boat.
I narrow my eyes even more.
I think that having a long-established store that has been around since the Edo period thriving in Ginza was an extraordinary effort.
"Is there any resistance to changing the business format and starting a new business?"
"I think there are two main ways to succeed long-established stores.
One is to communicate firmly without changing the family business from its founding.
The other is to protect "noren" without changing the essence while changing the business content in view of the world.
Until now, Mikawaya has changed the business format of sake, oil, yarn, Japanese clothing, and food.
However, I think we have inherited the tradition that we have walked as a long-established store that conveys Edo culture.
"The choice of products to be handled at Mikawaya is very simple.
Those that convey the traditional Japanese food culture of Edo, those that eat delicious white rice, and those that are kind to the body.
A select shop that collects such things.
Therefore, not only the ingredients, but also books on Edo's food culture are arranged in the store. ]
"It has been changed to Edo food (slow food) business format in 2003, and 20 years have passed.
What are you aiming for in the future?
"I would like to recreate the food style of family harmony that surrounds the dining table at home.
My parents were doing business, so there were very few things to surround the table together.
At present, it is said to be the age of individual meals, but it would be nice if we could create an opportunity to reconsider the warmth communication of the home through "food". ]
Mr. Kamiya told me to look a little far away.
"I like to eat, so I wonder if I chose food."
President Kamiya laughs.
I had the power to convince that "If this person sells, it's absolutely delicious."
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