Official

"Hyakukawaro Prosperity Figure", Toyokuni Utagawa (No. 3) 　Tokyo Metropolitan Library

In the middle of the Edo period, around Meiwa Yasunaga (1760-70), when the foundation of townsman culture was created, Mozaemon Momokawa opened a culinary teahouse "Hyakukawa" in Ukiyokoji in Setomonocho, Nihonbashi. At first, it was a "Shippuku" restaurant. "Takufuku" is a tablecloth on the dining table, and the dining table with it was called Takufukudai, and the dishes served there were called Takufuku dishes. It was a style of eating dishes that were handed down from China to Nagasaki and served on a platter at the center of the dining table, and eating them separately. A woman carrying a large plate is also depicted in the Ukiyo-e of the upper Toyokuni. For Japanese people who have the habit of eating individually set meals based on one soup and three vegetables, platter dishes flourished unusually. However, Momokawa, who became tired quickly and quickly became a leading culinary teahouse in no time, began Japanese cuisine according to the customer's preferences.

The first-class restaurant in the Edo period had a bath. Of course, Hyakukawa also had a bath. When we arrived, we first took a bath and had delicious food. What's the price of the dish? Three levels in kaiseki meal: 100 Hiki and 200 Hiki. One biki is 10 sentences. The craftsman earns 300 to 500 sentences a day, so it was not cheap, but it was enough to stretch it. Therefore, it seems that it flourished, such as the announcement of the succession of merchants, the wedding reception of the old family, the place of worship, and the place of direct prayer at Fukutoku Shrine.

The most famous restaurant in Edo is Yaozen, which opened in Asakusa, which still continues today (currently operates in Isoko-ku, Yokohama as "Yaozen Amegetsuso"), but both Yaozen and Hyakukawa It was a restaurant loved by literary ink artists. However, the biggest difference between the two is that Hyakukawa was a salon for literary ink artists. For example, Nanpo Ota created the Yamate Ren and held a Kyoden Santo, Kyozan Santo, Buncho Tani, etc., and talked about and recorded the fields of the world, customs, literary arts, etc. . Other members such as Buncho Tani, Sadanobu Matsudaira, Tadataka Ino, Shozan Sakuma, Yoriyamayo, and Hoitsu Sakai were also attending.

Painters Kunisada Utagawa (Toyokuni) and Hiroshige Utagawa also entered and exited. Momokawa's head, Mozaemon Momokawa, adopted Torataro Goto as his successor, but Mozaemon Momokawa had an eye to see the calligraphy, so he quickly saw the talent of the adopted child, Tora Taro, and was adopted as a child. He asked him to become a disciple of Hiroshige Utagawa to fulfill his wishes. Tora Taro played an active role as the third generation Hiroshige. I don't think it's easy to do what you really want to do for the shop. I felt it in an episode that showed the goodness of Momokawa Mozaemon's personality.

Part of the Yokohama City Library Digital Archive of "Bushu Yokohama Offshore Feast Figure" Yokohama City Library Digital Archive

In 1853, Perry, who led four black ships and appeared off Uraga off the coast of Uraga, handed over the president's letter in search of opening the country and told him that he would come to get a response the following year. Perry, who appeared on seven black ships again the following year, will conclude the treaty. The treaty was concluded after about a month of consultation. At that time, it was Hyakukawa that was entrusted with all entertainment dishes. For 200 people on the Japanese side who entertain 300 people on the U.S. side. I ordered Honzen dishes. Honzen cuisine is a dish for samurai to entertain guests. As shown in the picture of the hospitality of Perry and his party, dishes are arranged on a table with legs, and a number of Honzen, Ninozen, and Sannozen are arranged. There are about 90 kinds of dishes at this time. 3 kinds of sweets. There were so many surprises. It seems that it costs about 150 million yen at the current amount for 500 people.

The three types of confectionery were shrimp sugar, Shiraishibashi incense, and Kasugara Luo. The first shrimp sugar is red and white striped flat sugar. The second Shiraishibashi incense seems to be a dried sweet like a rakugan and named after Noh's performance "Shakkiyo". Ishibashi is a fun and happy performance in the Noh performances where white and red lions dance between the blooming peony. Perhaps it was a dried confectionery in the shape of a peony or lion. However, I'm worried about how many people understood Noh at Perry and his party and some loved the beauty of dried sweets. The third, Luo Kasubai, is castella. This may have been the most delicious Americans. Since it weighed about 170 grams, it may have been assumed that it would be a souvenir rather than eating on the spot.

This luxurious dish on the Japanese side was also sashimi, soup, boiled food, and pottery, so it didn't seem to be so delicious for Americans who were used to meat dishes with a rich taste. Samuel Wells William, who came as an interpreter, says in the "Perry Japan Expeditionary Statement" that Japanese food is less salty and less expensive. I didn't seem to meet you.

In the year when Perry was entertained, Momokawa had already set up a table seat dedicated to foreigners, and began serving beef as Western food. Hyakukawa is good at grabbing the trend.

However, for some reason, Hyakukawa disappears. After the Meiji Restoration, the name of Momokawa no longer appeared in books or in the restaurant number. From the early Meiji era to 1965, there was a large ryokan called Nagura-ya next to Hyakukawa. There is also a story that the inn acquired the site of Hyakukawa. It is unknown whether Hyakukawa moved at that time or went out of business. Another reason may be that many Western restaurants were born in Tokyo after the Meiji Restoration and could not withstand excessive competition. However, the main cause is that the Tokugawa shogunate ended in the Meiji Restoration and he was unable to pay for the dishes to Perry and his party and had a large debt.

If you had refused to accept Perry, would it still be a long-established store?……Hyakukawa, who has responded to the demands of the people at that time, would have no option to refuse the hospitality of the first generation of Perry.

The road between Cored Muromachi and YUITO, opposite the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, is Ukiyokoji. The photo shows the direction of Fukutoku Shrine from Ukiyokoji.

"Koji" in Ukiyokoji in the Edo period was read as "Shoji" instead of "Koji". It is said that the Kitamura family, a town older who lived in Ukiyokoji, was born in Kanazawa, so I read it in the Kaga style.

Why is it called "Ukiyo"? There is also a theory that there was a shop in this alley that handled "Ukiyo mat" woven in a pattern similar to cobblestones. Today's Ukiyokoji also looks like cobblestones. Are you conscious of ukiyo mat?

Fukutoku Shrine is a venerable shrine that was already enshrined in the Heian period, and Ieyasu also visited for worship and worshiped by the second shogun Hidetada. Therefore, it seems customary for visitors to Hyakukawa to visit Fukutoku Shrine and then go to a restaurant.

At "Fukutoku Shrine Square" in front of Fukutoku Shrine, there is a signboard explaining "Honchodori and Town Elderly Kitamura Family" and "Ukiyokoji and Restaurant Hyakukawa". Blue in the picture → That's right.

[References]

“Phantom Restaurant Nihonbashi“ Hyakukawa ”” Takeo Koizumi Shinchosha

"People who loved Japanese sweets" Toraya Bunko Yamakawa Publishing Company

"Perry Japan Expeditionary Statement", Samuel Wells William Yushodo Bookstore

"After the disappearing restaurant" Hyakukawa "" Chikugo Nori Nikkei Shimbun July 3, 2014 morning edition